Friday, August 10, 2012

A Floaty Madras Dress for Clara: Vintage McCall's 3643

We tried this pattern again with new and improved fitting adjustments. To give more room through the bodice (this pattern is sized too small for Clara) I cleverly extended the sides this time, instead of pulling the pattern back from the center fold. And I moved those outrageously high dart points down from the stratosphere. A perfect fitting score this time!

As for the skirt, I ditched the pattern altogether in favor of a circle skirt. I had hardly any fabric, *and* I didn't want to mess with matching plaid on all those gores.

To support a bountiful skirt in a light fabric, I used rayon seam binding as a stay in the waist seam. I also made sure to interface the seam with the zipper in it to keep the cotton from buckling or rippling. Those moves paid off with very smooth construction.

This is such a delightful pattern. With my change to a circle skirt, I had literally four pieces total in hand to sew up, plus three strips of bias binding. Can't beat that.


Angela said...

Beautiful as always! Can you please explain how you interface the zipper seam? That is a tip I could use:)

Anna said...

Angela, I cut two strips of interfacing, each as long as the zipper and about 3/4 inch wide, and bond them to the wrong side of the fabric centered over the seamline, right where I'm going to sew the zipper down. That's it!

Jodes said...


Lisa said...

I love madras - and thanks for the inside info!


Carol said...

Anna: What a beautiful dress! (in MD)

Anonymous said...

Hi Anna
Love the dress! Not to mention all of the ones you've sewn.
I'am a beginner sewer, (skirts and simple dresses) I wish you posted pictures of the inside of the dress, how to sewed the tape on the waist.I would like to try that on my next dress.
Any thought of giving sewing lessons?
Love your posts!

Anna said...

Irene, this is a link to a well-done tutorial showing how to put in a waist stay. I didn't go quite that far and include a hooking closure (next time!), instead I just sewed the stay into the waistband seam, on the wrong side of the bodice at the seamline before attaching the skirt.

Isla said...

Another beautiful dress! Just lovely, Anna!

Sew Blessed Maw said...

What a beautiful dress for Clara. I love the plaid.. So pretty.. What a great idea to put interfacing on the zipper part.Thanks for sharing that tip.

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