Simplicity 1080: Dottie Angel Smocks to Camp In
I saw that Dottie Angel (I don't know who this is, except that she has written a blog and designed a popular smock which you can find on Pinterest) was releasing her pattern through Simplicity last week, and Hobby Lobby was selling Simplicity patterns for ninety-nine cents, so I picked it up.
The most fun part is picking out various fabrics to go together. I keep all my blues on the same shelf, so these naturally arranged themselves. You see what I did here--two dresses with reversed fabrics. And one is trimmed in purple and one in olive green.
These are going to be my camping dresses. Easy off and on, so cool and floaty, and pockets for the car keys.
I haven't seen any reviews yet for this pattern, and I'm curious because the instructions have you *fold* the armhole back to finish it. How can that work? We learned in sewing kindergarten that we don't finish curved edges by folding them under--except for a very narrow hem around a circle skirt or some such. I ignored that apparently bad direction (I won't condemn it entirely before giving someone out there a chance to defend it--so step up, I'm truly wondering!) and finished the sleeve openings with bias binding. Please weigh in if you've read or tried the pattern . . . .
29 comments:
Maybe it's a Thing. I am 99.9% sure I once read a Natalie Chanin pattern review somewhere online where the seamstress turned the neckline under instead of sewing on binding. It made me wonder if this is something people do that I don't know about, and now I REALLY wonder!
I like your cool floaty dresses. I found a similar style at the thrift store last summer--vintage dress, zip up front, pink with coordinating floral print pockets. I love to wear it at home on hot, humid days when I'm doing a lot of housework or green bean snapping on the porch. Which seems like most days. (My other go-to for those tasks is the Sew Simplicity Diane Kimono dress that you posted about at some point in the past!)
I like the silhouette of this pattern. I would like to try making it up. Would you say the sleeves cover the underarm, or are they the sort that cover the shoulder only?
Beautiful, I'm trying to buy this pattern but can't find it anywhere, sold out? It's a brand new pattern, just released, and you bought it in sales, lucky you.
Hi Anna--I am so glad that you were able to pick up the pattern and sew it already! Yeah! I was assuming that there was bias bindings on the sleeves as well and that is what I will do, plus I need practice at that skill. We were on vacation in Europe when it was released to stores here in the US, so I ordered it online from my phone in the hotel room. The pattern is backordered and will ship out the 23d of July. I think it is sold out in stores. I love the idea of camping dresses and yours are just lovely. I hope that you gain a lot of joy from both the dresses and camping! I want to make up some of these dresses for just working around the house and garden! I will definitely have to pick out some fabrics. My stash is far less organized than yours so I am also inspired to start weeding out fabrics and organizing! Have a great day! Susan
Anna, I thought this might be something I would like so I started looking for the pattern on-line. The designer has a FB page with a photo that could be a collection of these frocks on hangers. They look as if there is bias tape for the neck facing.
From FB, it is as short hop to the blog, if you have interest in her vintage inspired work.
On-line, Simplicity says it is on back order till 7/27...
Love love love! I don't sew so I'm not sure how to answer your question. Very cute ! Christina
Yes, Elaine, the necks are finished with bias binding, turned to the inside. But I think in her development of the pattern she tried a lot of variations for finishing. The pattern ended up kind of all over the map, with bias binding on the outside, bias binding on the inside, turned under edges, and French seams.
You are very clever at interpreting the patterns. A natural gift I fhink!!
Well, well - you're Johnny on the Spot! They're so cute! I ordered mine online, and as others here have said, I have to wait till the end of July to get mine.
Lisateresa
by the way, Polly - I think it's in the first Alabama book - she doesn't tell you to turn under edges, but there is a large photo of a tank top in there and the neck edge is obviously turned under and stitched. I have always wondered about that, but suppose it's okay to do if it's a large opening, and no stretching will occur?
I want to hear more about this camping :) Are you on the ground in a sleeping bag? On a cot? In a cabin? My husband and boys want me to go but I've always been chicken...
Mary
These are so pretty, Anna, and just the thing for summer.
You've inspired me to seek out the pattern - I would love these for Saturdays' housework and for relaxation.
I'm musing about a kimono sleeve on this ....
Dotty Angel has a Facebook page: Dottie Angel Ltd
Nancy
Thanks for posting the pics of your dresses Anna. So cute in the blue prints and checks you chose. I'm going to do a similar thing in browns or grays. (greys?)
Enjoy your camping!
Dee/NY
I just made this pattern in view B and love it!!
My sleeves are turned under with bias binding covering the folded under seams.
I've just made my first dress from this pattern, and I folded the sleeves under as instructed, or at least I think I did what the instructions said. So far I think it's okay?
I'm wondering if you bound your armholes before or after you sewed the side seams.
Also, I am a not-very-skilled and an inexperienced sewer. I have been making my own clothing for years now, but I stick to smock-y things like this, so I haven't done different kinds of clothing or anything requiring special techniques. That said, I had trouble with many aspects of the pattern: how the pockets were bound (so fiddly), the hand basting (getting it IN was fine, it was getting it OUT I had a hard time with), the neckline (it looks like you had no trouble at all, now I think there's a trick I'm missing), and by the time I got to the hem I was winging it, so I didn't follow the instruction for that, either.
Even so, I absolutely love this dress. I am going to make more, and I am so, so glad to have the pattern. In the future, I'll just put it together as I see fit and save myself the trouble of following instructions.
To anyone looking for that pattern, I got mine at Joann Fabrics. I ordered from Simplicity on June 23, received an order confirmation, and so far no other news and no pattern in the mail. I'd recommend picking it up from a brick & mortar shop if possible.
When are you going camping? It looks like a comfortable dress.
If you are on Instagram check out hashtag #dottieangelfrock
Inspired by your post, I just returned from the fabric store with some gorgeous prints for view C. A question, though: Did you find the sizing off? I seem to remember patterns running small, and generally take a size 6ish in clothing, but measured into the very bottom of the size M range on the pattern. I'd be interested to hear how you find the sizing to correlate with your actual dress size. Thank you for the lovely inspiration! - Aimee
Aimee, I thought the sizing was normal for a modern pattern--I chose the correct bust size according to my measurements and that worked just fine. The waist is going to tie to fit you, and the cut at the hips is so loose that shouldn't be an issue. I did find that the tucks under the bust were too high for me--but I'm taller than average. I'll be moving them down an inch on my next try.
Hi Anna, I love your fabric choices for these dresses. I have just got the pattern and was thinking of making it up for a late - summer into autumn dress but maybe putting a long sleeved T-shirt under for cooler days (which is now here in the UK!), do you think that would work? Thanks Sandra
I think it would work just fine! Have fun--
Dottie Angel is not a dress designer (well I guess she is now), or pattern maker or even someone who makes that many clothes. She is though, highly creative and sews, crochets, embroiders and knits many things. She made a dress out of a pattern she put together herself, which she was highly delighted by and everyone loved it and clamoured to be able to access the pattern for themselves. This simplicity commercial pattern is the result - no mean achievement! There may be anomalies in techniques often used by dress makers,, simply because the creator is not an 'expert' in dressmaking. However, I expect that as people would want the dress to be as Dottie Angel makes it herself, they left in her instructions.
That said, I have seen people turning under and stitching curved places like armholes quite a lot. I think it is because often people don't know how to sew that well and just do what seems like a good idea and that's the only solution they can think of and then the internet spreads people doing things 'wrongly'. I often find people sew in weird ways these days. People tend to treat it like you do a curved seam edge and clip the edges - often clipping them before sewing. You can really only get away with turning under once, so it does make it a bit vulnerable with that raw edge. Once you clip into a neatened edge, you have problems too. I should think that binding it would be a better solution.
Love your dresses and fabric combinations!! How does the dress look when you have it on? So often I love the dress off, but put it on and it's a different story! (At least for me.) Thanks!
Hi Anna, your dress looks wonderful! I am in the UK and have only just been able to get hold of the pattern online. I want to make it to take on holiday in a few weeks so am up against a deadline and wanted to try and get some fabric now so that I'm ready to get going when the pattern arrives. Are you able to tell me how much fabric I will need? Thank you!
Hi I have this patter and made my first one exactly as per the instructions. It's not quite true to say as you do above that she finishes the armhole by turning it under. If you follow the instructions to the letter what happens is this:
You first bind the edges of the armhole. Then you follow a fold line taking the seam back in towards the shoulder, and then top stitch it down - this creates the specific capped sleeve shape, it's not just about tucking it out of the way. Then you sew up the side seams catching the start of the armhole in.
So technically the finish is done by bias binding. The folding under is shaped, to create the capped sleeve.
I have seen someone do a version where they did the bias binding but didn't then fold it under, which also looked fine, though I prefer the original.
On the one I'm making now I'm changing the finishing by overlocking the edge and doing a rolled hem, but then still following the fold line to make the capped sleeve shape. I just got fed up of making and sewing so much bias binding on the first one.
You can see my version and some pattern tweaks here
Like you I find the tucks a bit high and am bringing them an inch down on the next one (and I'm not tall at all, but do need a lot of room up top ;) )
All that said I have read posts by Tif (real name of Dottie Angel) and she says quite freely that there are tons of ways the pattern can be modified.
My idea is to buy a loose blouse and just add the bottom of the contrasting material. All done.
I bought the pattern, expensive, light weight corduroy fabric and other notions. Not being experienced at all my measurements led me to make a large... oh boy way too big. I must have cut off 5/8 in. off the length of sides up to top shoulder, twice. still too big.
Not a great pattern if you are thick through the middle and have big boobs too. I am way frumpy in mine.
I purchased this pattern at JoAnn Fabrics around December, if you have a JoAnn’s or Hancock Fabrics maybe they would have it in stock in your area ( I’m not a good seamstress so I am hoping it’s fairly easy to sew )
I have made 2 and have 2 more cut out, I did not even try the turn under arm and neck holes, contrasting bias tape for the win. I felt it fits a bit small..but I have a thick torso..may not be true for all. The pattern is quite old actually, I bought it 2 years ago.
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